FRANCE (Bordeaux) – The chronicles of Jean-Marc Quarin (a renowned Bordeaux connoisseur, wine expert and wine critic) are profound, surprising, and provided with an astonishing amount of background knowledge – as usual. And so are his first chronicles for 2014, which he just handed in to me. In these chronicles, Jean-Marc is reporting about a remarkable occasion to participate in a rather seldom vertical tasting of wines from Château Mouton Rothschild. To do this, he met with private wine lovers twice in Switzerland and once in Luxemburg. All wines to be tasted had been purchased from normal traders – the tasting was a blind tasting.
You can read his notes of the 1988 to 1990, 1992 to 1996, 2000 to 2007 vintages on Jean-Marc Quarin’s web site (see TIP). Here we present several remarkable excerpts of his tastings from 1997, 1998, and 1999 as well as from 2008, 2009, and 2010 so as to present them to our readers. And in the second part, which will be published tomorrow, Jean-Marc Quarin will answer some questions about this tasting.
1997: 15 / 87
“I assessed the wine identically twice in a row. The wine is rather usual. In the nose ripe fruits and a hint of animal notes. Soft and fluent in the mouth, but also dry. This wine should have been drunk earlier.” (direct quote of Jean-Marc Quarin)
1998: 15.5 / 88
“My grades go downwards. I don’t believe that this wine will be able to continually delight anyone. It should have been drunk earlier, at a moment when it still would have been able to present its fruit. What I don’t like are its edges and its rustic surface. Sell this wine.” (direct quote of Jean-Marc Quarin)
1999: 15 / 87
“This wine was disappointing. It seems fluid – drink it now or never.” (direct quote of Jean-Marc Quarin)
2008: 18 / 96
“A great performance! In the glass, the wine presents a dark but visibly young color – in the nose it presents itself very fruity. On the palate, this wine is rich and smooth, aromatic, spicy, and full of refined feelings. This wine melts in the mouth and, and the finish is tasty, juicy, and persistent. Wait until 2018, or store this wine until 2030.” (direct quote of Jean-Marc Quarin)
2009: 18 / 96
“I tasted this wine in contrast to the previous at Château Mouton Rothschild. Nice dark color in the glass. Superb and intense in the nose, linked with elegance, fruit, freshness, and a hint of vanilla. Its freshness persists on the palate and remains even after decanting the wine. It presents itself somewhat decent, which is surprising for this vintage. The wine attracts one’s full attention to its surface with its smooth tannins and extending aroma. Wait until 2018, or store this wine until 2035.” (direct quote of Jean-Marc Quarin)
2010: 19 / 98
“I tasted this wine, too, at Château Mouton Rothschild. For me, this is the greatest Mouton Rothschild wine since 1986. Intense color in the glass, it presents a great, complex, fresh, creamy nose with vanilla tones and a hint of blackcurrant. It is a quintessence of Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on warm gravel soils. When decanted, this wine strengthens all its aromas on the palate. His mouth feeling is silky with a long, rich, and smooth body. Somewhat complex in the middle with a narrow but fine-grained tannins, very long, aromatic finish. This wine offered me the best tannins I’ve ever tasted. Its blend: Ninety-four percent of Cabernet Sauvignon, 6 percent Merlot, and an alcohol content of 13.7 percent. Wait until 2022, or store this outstanding wine until 2060.” (direct quote of Jean-Marc Quarin)(red.yoopress)
|PART II: What vintages of Mouton Rothschild wines should you purchase?|