FRANKREICH (Bordeaux) - In part I, Jean-Marc Quarin talked about the 1997, 1998, 1999 as well as 2008, 2009, and 2010 vintages. His critics and assessments are very astonishing but also very revealing. We talked to Jean-Marc Quarin about that:
YOOPRESS: What is the result of these vertical tastings?
Jean-Marc Quarin: All my tastings show me that Mouton Rothschild used three different vinification methods. (1): From 1988 to 1999, the wine present roasted, smoky notes in the nose with somewhat tired fruit on the palate, followed by a medium-bodied finish characterized by coarse tannins. (2): From 2000 to 2003, the wines presented themselves more precise in the nose, with their body and the balance of tannins being more stable on the palate. And (3): From 2004 to 2010, the flavor of the wine explodes in the glass with complex aromas.
YOOPRESS: What is the special thing about the vintages 2004 to 2010?
Jean-Marc Quarin: On the palate, the tannin structure is formed meticulously; this forbids the idea Mouton Rothschild could be the weakest producer among the premier crus. After we had observed how Philippe Dhalluin improved the quality of Branaire Ducru’s wines during the 1990ies before he was hired by Mouton Rothschild, the change is now completely obvious. The wines are now fresher, they are no longer simply dry. In case Philippe Dhalluin continues to work for Mouton Rothschild and keep the responsibility for the production, this is only of advantage for wine enthusiasts.”
YOOPRESS: What Mouton Rothschild wines are ageing best?
Jean-Marc Quarin: This I can tell you clearly – it’s the wines from 2004 on, in other words: the wines produced under the leadership of Philppe Dhalluin. From 1988 to 1999, with the exception of 1996, the wines remain below their potential. Many of the wines from these vintages forgot to polish themselves during ageing, as traders have again and again promised us.
YOOPRESS: It this true for these vintages in general, or are there some more exceptions worth being mentioned?
Jean-Marc Quarin: Well, there are really big differences between different bottles of the same vintage, and the same thing I’ve observed for the younger vintages, too. This is a problem that occurs again and again in Bordeaux, and it’s the source of great frustration for us wine lovers.
YOOPRESS: Is there a Mouton Rothschild vintage that you can recommend especially?
Jean-Marc Quarin: The writing and criticizing colleagues are again and again pointing at the 2009 vintage. I don’t agree with this opinion. I prefer the 2010 vintage, which is and will be the better one in the end. Especially disappointing is the 1999 vintage, whereas the 2004 vintage is to be recommended especially. The latter one has a particularly good price-performance-ratio. You shouldn’t hesitate too long to purchase this wine.
YOOPRESS: Jean-Marc Quarin, we thank you for your interesting statements and the convincing tasting notes, also in the name of our readers. (red.yoopress)
|Read in Part-I: Vertical tasting of Mouton Rothschild wines|