A century German Riesling - Edition II

THE IDEA: Gian Luca Mazella, an Italian wine journalist (among others Gambero Rosso, RAI, Sky News), had had the initial idea of this unique as well as historical Riesling-tasting. The Prädikatsweingüter of Germany were - due to their richness in "Traditionsgüter" in its own rows- the ideal partner. With the support of the German wine institute a "handful" of journalists were invited to this rare tasting. Publicists, who write for renowned wine publications in their home city, and are at the same time influential tasters and book authors and are considered capacities of their future:

• Jancis Robinson M.W., England
• David Schildknecht, USA
• Bruce Sanderson, USA
• Dieter Braatz, Germany
• Michel Bettane, France
• Katsuyuki Tanaka, Japan

All invited journalists happily accepted the invitation. This is, without any doubt, understandable, since even great wine authors do not often get access to such tastings, because the small amount of still existing wine samples are probably hidden in the treasuries of the producers.

THE TASTINGS: It was not easy for Gian Luca Mazzella to make up samples of the products and wines. He wanted the samples to be the greatest vintages of the past century and the different wine types -that were a trend at all times- to be represented: From Cabinet (historical term for the best wines*) to so-called "naturrein"** wines, from dry wines to a large number of noble sweet selections, most decent selections, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslesen as well as Eiswein.

THE SQUARE CIRCLE: He consciously selected the almost provocative group of producers, in which some were missing, that was really important for the renaissance of the Riesling, however more in the 21st century, but which had not had their reputation in the 20th century. In addition, there was no list of which traditional winery holds which wine in its treasury. Which analysys data the wines had from 1900 to 1911 etc. at the time of their picking was also not known. These data are indispensible for putting together the samples and their sensoric harmony. However, Mazzella succeeded in turning the circle into a square.

THE WINES: There was a devout silence in the tasting room in Schloss Johannisberg in Rheingau when the first wine - a dry 1900 Ruppertsberger Stückelpfad from the winery Geh. Rat Dr. v. Bassermann-Jordan was served. It was served together with a Erbacher Rheinhell Cabinte from 1931 (Schloss Reinhartshausen), a 1937 Casteller Schlossberg Naturrein (Domänenamt Castell - the last existing bottle!) and representatives of the years 1992, 1990 and 1999. There was wild enthusiasm! After 108 years the wine and also the younger samples were standing there in all their ripe beauty.

The sample sequence consciously never lost any of its excitement. The sequence which was arranged according to the wine's fruitiness, alcohol content and sourness, started with the oldest wine. And from what we know wine analysis had not been done in 1900. And after a few decades even analysis can show that with the wine also comes a further development, which makes the sweetness less tasteable.

In the second sequence, great selections were served: 1949 (Niederhäuser Hermannsberg, Niederhausen-Schlossböckelheim), 1998 (Erdener Prälat, Dr. Loosen), 1964 (Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg, Karthäuserhof) and 1973 (Oberhäuser Brücke, Dönnhof).

The third sequence, which consisted of even more concentrated selections, Beerenauslesen and Eiswein, was started with a 1911 Kiedricher Berg Riesling Auslese from Robert Weil. This is a wine that was considered a "Hauswein" of the Grand Hotel Adlon Berlin and also in the Stadtschloss of the imperial palace in Berlin. It was followed by wines from the legendary origins Scharzhofberg (1971), Bernkasteler Doctor (1976), Braunerberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr (1994) and Mussbacher Eselshaut (1998), just to mention a few.

Brilliant Beeren- and Trockenbeerenauslesen finished it up: A 1921 Steinberger from the Staatsweingüter Koster Eberbach, a 1937 Erbacher Marcobrunnfrom Schloss Schönborn (interestingly the first of 48 pressed bottles that leaves the Schönborn´schen treasury), a 1947 Schloss Johannisberger Goldlack, a 1959 Wehlener Sonnenuhr from Joh.Jos. Prüm and a 1967 Wachenheimer Rehbächel from Dr. Bürklin Wolf.

OPINION: "It is almost a miracle that we managed to provide samples of a century of Riesling and that all wines were perfectly tasted. Each wine was an extraordinary pleasure and a documtent of its time", VDP Vice President Wilhelm Weil says about the tasting.

For the other present Prädikatsweingüter, which presented their wines, this tasting, too, was an experience that they had never made like this before. The wines, however, were a testament for the timeless quality and crystal clear beauty of the Riesling with its pedigree from the best German vineyards.

Afterwards all participants enjoyed a dinner during a wonderful summer day outside and in the middle of the historical Steinberg-Weinbergs of Kloster Eberbach. This was worthily ending the extraordinary tasting. (red.yoopress)

COMMENT*Cabinet: Used to mean a special kind of winery, depository for the best wines, which are also called Cabinet wines; the historical term comes from the 18th century in Rheingau and refered to the so-called Cabinetkeller in Kloster Eberbach. Was prohibited by the wine law from 1971. It lives in the Germany's and Austria's wine law in the term "Kabinett" for the lowest category of the Prädikatsweine. (enobooks.de)

**Naturrein: Pressed without (artificial) additives. In the wine law of 1901 the term "naturrein" was first taken up, and its use for improved (sugar-added) wines was prohibited. The term is not allowed to be used on wine labels in advertisments for wine since the wine law was inforced in 1971. This was because German law is suggesting that all wines are natural products and the use of the term "natural" is thus some kind of fallacious competition.