A Romanée Saint-Vivant tasting at the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

Usually, decision-making is an internal process. However, in the deci-rhythm, those responsible of the Domain rethink their decisions according to the opinion and in discussion with these carefully selected wine experts and wine enthusiasts. The highlight of this meeting is, of course, the tasting itself.

This year, Anthony Hanson, Master of Wine and Senior Consultant Christie's International Wine Department, was so lucky as to be among the 8 selected wine journalists and wine experts. In a press note from Christie's Hanson told about his experience:

"We were greeted by Aubert de Villaine, co-owner and vintager of the most well-known winery in the Burgundy, the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and active partner and representative of the Villaine-family", said Hanson.

"Villaine explained that from the late 1990's on, various sections of the vineyards were cultivated separately", says Hanson. "We found out that certain grapes, refined on special real vines were not only more effective, but also came out with a concentrated wine." Thus, some of the sections of land were re-cultivated in the course of the development, particularly Pinot Noir vines with smaller grapes could be refined a lot easier. It took almost 9 years for this refinement to be successful. "Our goal was to bring the whole production to perfection and to optimize harmony and complexity of the wines", says Hanson about Villaine's summary.

"After the tour of the famous vines and the cellar technology, we were then allowed to taste 18 vintages of the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, from 2007 back to 1990", says Hanson. "All of the wines were in magnum-bottles except for the vintages 2006, 1994 and 1991. All the wines were poured in glasses in our presence and about 5 minutes later they were served without decantation." The following is an excerpt from Hanson's tasting notes:

2007: Medium deep garnet; nose shows ripe cherries and toasty oak, with rooty character. Palate is full and broad, the fruitiness now creamy, with gentle tannins, slightly lacking concentration, still tight - 16,75

2006: Deeper purple-garnet all the way to rim; bright, fresh fruitiness, sooty and spicy with fine oakiness still apparent. This has intense, fruity grip, with rich middle palate, tannins not yet softened, classic length and great potential - 18,25

2005: Impressively deep, still youthful purple-garnet; nose includes ripe black fruits, smokiness and roasted cherries. Palate is broadly structured, with powerful middle, superb tannins, great distinction, perfect harmony. Not yet luscious, but great length and massive potential - 19,5

2004: Garnet with tawny rim; rose-petal fragrance of bottle-aged wine is emerging, fine and lovely. Silky-textured, showing superb, fine fruit, freshness, elegance and charm. A beautiful example from a lighter year - 18,25

2003: Rich purple to rim; nose shows roasted, opulent ripe fruitiness, not yet complex but fresh. Suave and fleshy, with powerful mid-palate fruit, then firm tannins and some bitterness on finish. One dimensional, as yet, begging the question : How will complexity develop, as its tannins evolve? - 18,25

2002: Ruby-red with browning rim; lightly fruity, stemmy and oaky, with fragrant perfume moving between youthful and aged character. Starts silky, with fine fresh fruit, balanced for a light year; but this lacks intensity and length - 16,5

2001: Fairly pale garnet red, the rim evolved and tawny; nose is smoky, meaty, fragrant and spicy. Palate is full and structured, with strong tannins which will need 3-5 years to soften. An elegant, immature beauty, with good potential - 17,5 +

2000: There is a solid depth of colour at this wine's core, the nose being youthful, complex, fragrant and rich. On the palate, lighter structure than 2001, with solid middle and chalky tannins in evidence, which need time to soften - 17,0

1999: Very deep, purple red, with meaty, ripe, black fruits character and caramelised, upside-down fruit-tart character. A full-bodied, richly built magnificently fleshy wine, with fabulous mid-palate, and tannins in perfect harmony. It perhaps lacks a tiny bit of freshness on the finish otherwise perfect - 19,5

1998: Impressively deep red, with rim just turning, the nose being rooty, meaty and slightly stemmy, but rich and complex. Super, fruity start, with impressive middle and full finish. Tannins are not bitter, freshness is apparent, medium length - this needs 3-5 years - 18,5

1997: Red-brown colour, more evolved than 1998; the nose shows aged perfumes, with elegant fresh fruitiness, opening up in glass. This has a sweet, fresh start, and lovely balance, with vibrant, chalky tannins on the finish. May be drunk or kept, but already delicious - 18,0

1996: Good depth of still-youthful colour ushers in a nose which is rich and fresh, with the oak barrel character still apparent, giving meaty, spicy complexity. Fresh fruitiness, with power at start, are apparent, then firmness on the finish, with acidity noticeable. Only medium-concentrated in mid-palate, reflecting a year of large production - 17,5

1995: Impressive red, with rim just browning; nose is smoky, perfumed, complex, fresh. Richly powerful from start to finish, with softening tannins and great length. This is superb, though not yet mature, needing 2-5 years - improves in the glass - 18,5 +

1994: Impressive depth of colour for a light vintage, just browning; fresh raspberry aromas, slightly vegetal. Starts well, then mid-palate seemed absent, with drying tannins on finish. Decanting would have been beneficial, as palate filled in, and this improved with aeration in the glass. Serve now or keep 2-5 years, in hope - 16,0 +

1993: Has similar depth of colour to 1995, with browner rim; nose shows roasted cherries and smokiness. Lovely, sweet start, then succulent, rich middle, finishing earthy and tree-barky, with tannins not yet fully softened - 18,0

1992: Impressive colour, with nose showing complex combination of vegetal and fruity aromas, not yet fully mature. Sweet and elegant with lovely fruit, delicious for drinking now, its silkiness and delicacy very seductive - 17,75

1991: Rich garnet, with browning rim; fragrant, aging vegetation Pinot Noir aromas, very perfumed. This starts strongly, with medium-full body and good fruit, finishing still firm - 17,5

1990: Rich ruby of medium depth, the perfume profoundly complex, still youthful, many layered. The palate shows superb richness, with excellent middle and impressive tannins, not yet fully resolved - a magnificent, wonderful wine with many years development to come - 19,5

(Tasting notes from: Anthony Hanson, Master of Wine and Senior Consultant for Christie's International Wine Department)

The Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) is generally known as the most famous winery in the Burgundy and it is internationally considered one of the best wineries in the world. The DRC is located in the French wine community Vosne-Romanée in the wine-growing region Côte-d'Or, north of the village Nuits-Saint-Georges. The name of the Domain comes from the well-known Grand Cru-area Romanée-Conti, where the winery owns 5 hectares, which is more than half of the appellation. It is located downhill to the close-by monopoly area of land La Romanée and is also right next to the Grand Cru-areas of land Richebourg and Romanée-Saint-Vivant, which is owned by numerous wineries. The Domaine DRC also owns other parts of Grand Crus in Vosne-Romanée, among those Échezeaux, Grand Échezeaux, Romanée-Saint-Vivant and Richebourg. Also, in the Grand Cru-area of land Le Montrachet there is vines of pinot blanc and Chardonnay. (aw.yoopress)