The wine world's anchor in times of climate change: Forgotten vine types

Climatologists predict an average increase in temperatures of 2 to 4 degrees Celsius for this century (35.6 to 39.2 degrees Fahrenheit). If the forecasts turn out to be true, many European vineyards will be ruined. There is definitely no shortage of warning signs: the ups and downs of the weather alone lead to more or less worrisome vintages. Dealing with these annual fluctuations has long been a common part of alchemy all around the elixir grape juice.

In the past few decades we really did not have to worry (or at least not that much) about the climate, but people rather specialized in vine types that yield sufficient wine, that mature faster, show a good amount of acid and acohol and that lead to economic success thanks to their taste.

Looking back at old times, one might find it silly that people used to pull out slowly maturing vines and replacing them with slightly different but faster maturing types - thus, Merlot, Cabernet, Sauvignon, Chardonnay and half a dozen other sorts spread all over the world. All these types yield perfect and fast maturing fruit.

"For the past 40 years we concentrated on fast maturing types", says Pascal Bloy, responsible of more than 400 vine types at the French Institute for Wine and Vine (IFV). "The idea was to achieve a high level of maturity as fast as possible. Now we are realizing that this was probably a mistake. However, we're not alone with these problems, the Portuguese, Spanish, Italians and Greeks have the same worries as us".

"Altogether we are worried about the increase of alcohol content with the decline in acid" says Laurent Audeguin, director of research and developement at the IFV. "The acid content is extremely important for the balance and taste as well as the normal aging process of wine. Too much heat and sunrays mean that the grapes mature even faster and that in turn leads to a difficult relationship of sugar and acid".

It's not that easy though; the identity of many wine regions in France and elsewhere has formed its "terroir" that is so close to the vine type that a transplantation with other vine types in terms of acceptance in the global market is nearly impossible. Experts at the IFV know this just as much as analog institutes in other wine countries.

Vineyard of Château Figeac in Saint-Émilion (Photo: Berndt Fernow)

Over many years, various institutes have carefully experimented with fast and long lost slow maturing vine types. Also, futuristic vintners came across types that were long forgotten but which now had a robust character and seem more interesting than ever. Other producers tried to maintain old vine types due to their pride or while searching for unknown top sellers. These types may know turn out to be real lucky charms.

All these news that were brought forth by experts and winemakers are now highly valued and collected in every way.

"The closer we get to the original vineyard, the greater chances we will have in terms of versatility, individuality and adjustment to future needs", says Laurent Audeguin (IFV). "Also we have found that some old sorts, for example the vine type Mauzac, that came from Roman war times, actually handle the rising heat a lot better. We also experiment with vine types like ugni Blanc, which is used in making Cognac. Our colleagues in Italy are currently experimenting with the type Trebbiano Toscano. We all have the goal of rediscovering vine types that can survive climate change well".

Michael Issaly, winemaker and President of the Independent Winemaker's Association (VIF) agrees and he has also wittnessed the change in vineyards. "In the past few years we discovered bird types that originally came to us from Africa and that seem to like it here a lot", he says. "Also, we are discovering new types of weeds and we find that alot of others are simply disappearing. It is very worrisome how fast this change takes place and if we don't prepare ourself for climate change it might hit us hard".

Excellent vintages like 2005 and 2009 in France as well as in other countries caused a lot of euphoria among winemakers and wine fans, however, experts are saying now that these vintages were warning signs back then that should not have been ignored. "We don't really have it under control yet", says Issly. "I recommend to our members to be responsible and to take action, namely in terms of vineyards, vine types, water and energy. Only if we are prepared can we deal with climate change".(a.wirtzfeld)