GERMANY (Berlin) - Oh, how the Captain hates this: The gibberish about “honest wine”. No wonder, because that word is always said by the most stupid people who do not want to be well versed, who proudly carry around their proud culinary educational alienation. They believe: Use the postulate of “honest wine” when once again the discussion about wine gets on your nerves. The “honest wine” always tastes best.
However, people like Peter Handke, who discovered honest wine in Serbia, and who discovered the honest sandwich, handmade by honest farmers who have been admonished by Joschka and NATO because they had trekked through Bosnia like guerillas on their sincere Sundays to shoot the mixed population there, ramble on “honest wine”. But that’s another story.
Because it is clear anyway what is meant by “honest wine”. Honest wine is a simple wine that is vinified by simple farmers without much nonsense and is not highly praised by PR and marketing companies. But therefore, it may also be a bit sour. And may not taste perfectly. And it did that so far. Honest wines were mostly poor wines. Often drunk by skinflints and capitalism haters à la Handke. But yesterday, the captain discovered the prototype of the new honest wine, the Zweigelt 2009 produced by the Bauer family from Illmitz in Burgenland, Austria. There, where you can find the estate and cellar of Gerhard Kracher, one of the world’s best winemakers who produce sweet wines.
The Bauer family offers many wines; the Captain thinks a few wines too much. But these wines will be sold. The Bauer family also wins prizes with their wines. And not the least important ones. The son of the house seems to have some influence in the company in regard to style, since the 2009 Zweigelt has a nice, simple and modern label. Not excessively stylish. But no longer a part of old winemaking.
In the glass, you find a medium-dark wine with a low light transmission, you smell then elderberry, recently cut cabbage browned in flour, brown bread, cherry, blueberry and a little rubber. Mature material, slightly oxidative (do not open too long) and slightly sweet. A fresh, present acidity, which is in good balance to the average power making the wine more seem substantial than many of its competitors. On the palate, the wine tastes round, without great attention. A perfect drinking wine.
And just what can be rightly called an “honest” wine. Straight thought, produced without great consideration, the craft used perfectly and includes a little drinking experience. You do not expect more from such a wine. And whoosh, you drink another glass.
What makes the Zweigelt of the Bauer family special is the fact that it is the only wine in this price category that striked the Captain as reasonable. In fact, exceedingly reasonable. Sure, it does not get to the delicious sweetness of equally expensive Australian-Chilean wines. However, it conveys area and authenticity. A wine like a Skoda Octavia. It does not boast. Does not represent anything. And drives. The captain likes that. Sometimes very much. (cptn.cork)