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New Wachau Part II: To stir and refresh in the Graben

Date
Time
07:12
Autor
Eileen CPTN CORK
Translator

COLUMN & CO

New Wachau Part II: To stir and refresh in the Graben
Der Spitzer Graben (Foto: Christoph Liebentritt)
The Spitzer Graben (Picture: Christoph Liebentritt)

GERMANY (Berlin) - The most extreme vineyard of the winemaker is the Offenberg. In the upper part of the vineyard, you can find inclusions of mica and paragneiss. Mainly because of the high percentage of slate, the wines from the Offenberg are highly influenced by the soil and often need more time and patience to develop. For terroir fans, this is certainly the most interesting vineyard of the Graben.

 

The 2008 Riesling Smaragd Offenberg, has 12.8 percent of alcohol content and is a true chameleon. A fine being hiding behind its mineral environment and remains open in all directions.

In the glass, you can see a bright yellow, and beautiful streaks. It smells very fine, with delicate fruit. Hard to believe that such an understatement can be produced in this environment of macho wines. Then, citrus and ripeness - no - ripe tangerines. Sometimes, it is like a vitamin cocktail, whose proportion of carrots evaporates with time. The wine needs air to reveal its entire mineral portfolio. And it needs time to leave its full splendor almost striking on the palate. At last, the wine loses its feminine touch and transformes into a macho - but without the solarium tan. More like Antonio Banderas in Zorro, a women whisperer.

Going the Offenberg to the Spitzer Point and to a barrel tasting of a Grüner Veltliner Smaragd from the 2010 vintage was able to inspire me. I am not a friend of Veltliner and with my dislike - as so often – I stand alone. But as nice as this was rarely a Veltliner: full of minerals, tight, sparkling and powerful. Yes, this is great material. Moreover, from a – let’s say - rather difficult year, which the captain has criticized too soon.

But the vineyard makes the difference: the Spitzer Point is facing southwest and up to 60 year- old vines are grown there. The most recent plants are 25 years old, a vineyard that obtains its minerals through sedimentation stones of the Setzberg. This Veltliner radiates with a fascinating interplay of ripe pear, mineral smokiness and – I do not dare to say it after my last artikel - white pepper. I hate pepper, but not here, because the depth – even if it is annoying - is terrific. There is nothing left to be said. (clemens.mally - cptn.cork)

... You have missed the first part? - Here you can read all about the Spitzer Graben, Donabaum’s wine style and what is going on with sulfur:

sys_pfeilNew Wachau Part I: To stir and refresh in the Graben

 

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