Old and new Mosel, one for both – Part II: A handicraft



Old and new Mosel, one for both – Part II: A handicraft
Von Bürokraten zum Qualitätswein ohne Geschmacksangabe degradiert, darf der Schimbock auf dem Etikett nicht zeigen, was er eigentlich ist (Foto: Vollenweider)
Degraded by bureaucrats to a quality wines without an indication of taste, the Schimbock is not allowed to show on the label what it actually is (Image: Vollenweider)

(Continued...) - This new old Riesling comes from a parcel of the Trabener Würzgarten. From the above-mentioned land called Schimbock. And its label is reminiscent of the heyday of Traben-Trarbach. At that time, more wines were traded here than in the city of Bordeaux.


Degraded by bureaucrats to a quality wine without indication of taste, the Schimbock is not allowed to show on the label what it really is. A dry, formerly a semi-dry, Auslese. But this hint is not to provoke any biases, because the wine is completely different from what one would expect it to be. The wine is simple a Schimbock wine, no more and no less. Here the vineyard and the simplified cellar work are important. And that cannot be explained by two terms. The people are to taste and then judge.

Vollenweider’s 2008 Schimbock is slowly developing. It brings together the ultra-traditional vinification and the somewhat complicated vintage. The 2008 vintage - also underrated by me when it was a young wine - developed into slowly, but very stable maturing Riesling wines. The very reductive expansion of the Schimbock did the rest, so that the flavor of the Schimbock was not revealed for a long time. And smelled of sulfur and yeast. I like that, but with that opinion I am quite alone with a few other freaks.

But after several minutes of air, you can already smell the spice of the slate. This unique flavor that always smells of something like wet Wingert, fragrant hay, perhaps also is reminiscent of barrel. Among these flavors, are also cut, plump and juicy peaches and gooseberries, guava, avocado. On the palate, the wine tastes then very thin, salty, and finally there is a taste of peach again. This time, however, it is a rather red, rough, small fruit from the vineyards. The residual sugar. Even this one is not adequately described by a standard. It is there and yet it does not impose itself.

A wine of contrasts, which rather unites tradition and modernity than that it marks the difference. A handicraft, a loner. And a proof of the winemaker. For thinking and expertise. (felix.eschenauer - cptn.cork)

... just follow the link for Part I:

sys_pfeilOld and new Mosel, one for both - Part I: Are you up for a Schimbock wine?


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